By sports routes, we mean climbing routes that are first well equipped and in a solid rock As a result, the risk in sports tracks is lower than the risk in classic alpine routes
But belaying in sports tracks remains an important point Anchors divide the road into several sections, ie pitches Generally, it is done with an anchorage in series Relays divide the route into several sections, that is, lengths When in a sport track I arrive at the relay, I usually have at least one, but in reality often have two strong anchors
That is, drilled points The relay in sports tracks is usually equipped with two anchor points, which makes it very easy to build a relay in series The relay is our security island It is here that the one who climbs in the head is cow and here he is going to assure his partner of rope When I arrive at the relay in the lane in several lengths, take my relay lanyard that I prepared in advance
It consists of a strap with a buckle and two carabiners Then I take a carabiner screw and pass it in the lowest spit, carabiner in which is the loop of my loin and I make sure on this screw carabiner itself Once I've had a coworker at the relay as a leader, I can inform my second, so I shout "Relay" And in case there are other strings in the wall, it is useful to mention the name of the second so that no one else thinks that one is mistaken Once it's done, the one on the bottom can detach me before shouting "free rope"
I know as a leader that I can pull the rope, then take my second in the belay device This means that I hook the second carabiner screw in the point of the top, that I also spend the loin In general there is a little slack in the strap and I want to remove it so there is no jerk on the upper point in case the lower point let go And for that, I make a capstan knot on the lanyard which thus deflects the loops so that the top anchor point is not loaded because it must be just redundant behind It must not be loaded
At relay, we use two security points, because it allows us to be redundant If one point gave way, we always have a second, which in terms of strength is connected to first and thus protects a rope from the accident As a leader, when I pulled the rope I can take my second in the belay device And as soon as I have it in the belay device, the second one underneath can be de-cowled and start climbing At the top, when I assure him, I make sure to always give him a slight traction
I do not need to shoot him, but I must not leave him limp either At each relay operation, it makes sense to check the situation again This means that we look at whether the relay was built correctly, whether the anchor points are good and whether the belay device is inserted correctly